Costumes Of Peking Opera

Peking Opera, also known as Jingju, is a quintessence of Chinese culture
that integrates music, vocal performance, mime, dance, and acrobatics into a
highly stylized theatrical art form. Originating in the late 18th century, it
was born from the “Four Great Anhui Troupes” who traveled to Beijing
in 1790 to perform for Emperor Qianlong’s 80th birthday. This historic
convergence blended regional styles like Huiju and Hanju, eventually evolving
into a national treasure during the Qing Dynasty, where it enjoyed immense
imperial patronage before becoming accessible to the general public.

The performance is defined by its four main role categories: the Sheng
(dignified male roles), the Dan (refined female roles), the Jing (forceful
“painted-face” male characters), and the Chou (humorous clowns). Each
character’s identity is vividly communicated through Lianpu (facial makeup) and
elaborate costumes, where colors serve as symbolic shorthand; for instance, red
signifies loyalty and courage, while white suggests cunning or treachery. These
performers undergo rigorous, lifelong training to master symbolic movements of
the hands, eyes, and torso that represent complex actions like riding a horse
or opening a door on a nearly empty stage.

Historically, Peking Opera has reflected the shifting tides of Chinese society,
from its peak as an imperial court entertainment to its survival through the
20th century. During the Cultural Revolution (1966–1976), traditional plays
were largely suppressed in favor of “model operas” that served
political ideologies. However, following this era, the art form saw a
restoration of its traditional roots. Today, it is recognized by UNESCO as an
Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, serving as a living link to China’s
aesthetic ideals and historical narratives.

Visually, the opera is a spectacle of craftsmanship, particularly highlighted
in the book “Costumes of Peking Opera” by Zhao Shaohua. The attire,
ranging from the Mang (court robes) to the Kao (stage armor), features
intricate hand-embroidery with silk, gold, and silver threads. These flamboyant
costumes were traditionally designed with high-contrast colors to ensure
visibility under dim oil lamps, making every movement a brilliant display of
history and culture that continues to captivate audiences worldwide.

To read the complete book “Costumes of Peking Opera” you can come
directly to the Widya Akartika University Library on the 4th floor or access
the website